WHAT TO GET AND WHERE TO GET IT
Civilian impressions of the 1860 to 1865 period are open to a wider interpretation than those of the average soldier of the time, whose items would have been issued to them and can be laid out with a good deal of specifics when building an impression. However, the civilians of the 1860's would have been able to purchase any of a wide variety of options in various patterns, materials, construction, etc. - where a soldier might only be issued only style of hat, the civilian could purchase any of countless options. Due to this variety civilian clothing should be tailored to the impression that you have chosen, and it is important to know who you are, where you lived, what your profession was, and other such details to make sure that your impression is correct. For example, a schoolteacher would have dressed differently than a farm laborer, and a rural South Carolina farmer's appearance would be different from a carpenter's apprentice in Savannah, Georgia, or a bookseller in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Due to the variety of options available, it is difficult to create a specific guide of every detail of each aspect of civilian attire, however, what is found herein will be a generic guide that will give the new reenactor a good starting point to portray the average middle-class person of the 1860's. From this starting point as you do more research into the diaries and letters, the textiles, garments, artifacts, images, etc., your impression will progress in knowledge, appearance, attitude and actions. Please remember that this guideline is the specific to the wartime years of 1860 to 1865, as the other eras of the 19th Century will have different silhouettes for men and women's clothing that will be inaccurate and not appropriate for use - a proper made 1860 vest is not the same as an 1866 pattern vest of a different material and patten.
Vendors - While there are numerous vendors who provide historic reproductions, those listed here are our preferred vendors - who have been chosen due to their affordability and accuracy. Some vendors, while well intentioned, have goods that are cheaper but are inaccurate and of poor quality, while others have very high-quality items that are way overpriced. This list is designed to provide the new reenactor with a good starting point from which they can progress into the hobby. If you believe you have found a vendor who sells a similar item, and you want to know if it is acceptable, please Contact Us before buying anything.
As you review this guide if you have any questions about the verification of prints, types of fabrics, or other questions, contact our Civilian Coordinator for more information.
PART IV (4) - CIVILIAN CLOTHING - WOMEN
Most women who first get into reenacting run out and purchase their dress before everything else, however, this is a sure way to obtain poor quality, ill-fitting and inaccurate items. The first items that should be purchased for the ladies will be their underpinnings - these are crucial to building a proper 1860s silhouette, and no item should be omitted unless otherwise specified. Remember that there is a specific reason that each layer was worn and put in place, and it is in every living historian's best interest to avoid cutting corners in building their foundation layers.
This following is a basic list of what a woman's wardrobe should contain, as well as where to acquire the item readymade, or to be able to make it yourself. This step-by-step guide should be used your outline when assembling your wardrobe to ensure you are portraying the average woman of the 1860-1865 period to the best of your, and our, ability.
As you review this guide if you have any questions about the verification of prints, types of fabrics, or other questions, contact our Civilian Coordinator for more information.
A chemise is absolutely necessary for cleanliness and to provide a layer between skin and your corset and other clothing. These should be changed at least once a day.
The proper lady's drawers of the 1860's were made of lightweight cotton or wool flannel and were split in the middle (crotchless) for ease of using the facilities. The wearing of drawers is considered optional, however, if you are wearing a crinoline with your impression, it is recommended that you wear them.
A corset is an absolute requirement - as the modern bra would not be worn until the 1920's, so a corset is necessary to give the bodice of your dress the best fit. Made of sturdy white cotton with whalebone for stiffing and a metal busk for closures, it was the most important and useful item in the mid-19th century wardrobe. The corset is meant to do many things to aid in the comfort of a reenactor, including providing support of the body and back, maintaining an accurate silhouette, taking the strain of wearing multiple petticoats and a crinoline off of the waist, provides control of a fluctuating waistline that comes with natural weight loss/gain, works with the chemise in the aiding of cooling the body and it supports proper posture. When purchasing a corset, it is often best to have a custom-ordered one made rather than an off-the shelf-corset - when ordering if a steel boned corset is not preferred, a pair of corded stays is acceptable.
The caged crinoline is the most common form of skirt support for the 1860s, easily achieving the fashionable "bell" shape of the era. A corded petticoat is also acceptable if you are portraying a working-class impression. A crinoline may have a bottom circumference measure of 90"-115". Any larger than this will prove cumbersome and was not produced in the era.
The Petticoat could be cotton, wool or quilted, and was useful in softening the lines that a crinoline makes against a skirt and adds more "pouf" to the ensemble. The 1860's saw the largest skirt circumference of the 19th Century, so you cannot get the necessary skirt fullness through a crinoline alone, it is recommended that you wear 1 to 2 starched petticoats over your crinoline.
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The most common form of footwear for ladies was the leather ankle boots. These can be laced or have elastic sides (elastic was available in the 1860s for certain products). Slippers were commonly worn for balls or indoor special occasions. Until correct footwear can be obtained modern black, or brown, low heeled leather boots that either button or lace up can be worn if they lack obvious modern attributes - there should be no zippers, logos, plastic or brightly colored rubber.
The most common dress of the middle-class during this period was a one-piece dress with a fitted bodice (fitted to the corset) with a skirt containing 4 to 5 yards of fabric. The fabric and materials used in the construction of these dresses varied from printed cotton, wool, silk to sheer. Ball Gowns, formal evening wear and high society dresses should be avoided when first beginning in reenacting, and proper ones can be obtained after your basic impression is completed. It should also be remembered that short sleeves and low necklines are only appropriate for young ladies. As you review your options, materials, patterns, etc., if you have questions contact the Civilian Coordinator for any assistance.
The following are examples (images and originals) of cotton dresses of the 1860's.
The following are examples (images and originals) of wool dresses of the 1860's.
The following are examples (images and originals) of silk dresses of the 1860's.
The most popular and widely seen form of headwear for women was some form of bonnet. Bonnets could be made of straw, silk reinforced with buckram, or corded cotton or wool. A slat bonnet is the most practical type of bonnet and does well at keeping the sun off the face and shoulders. Hats for women were reserved for sportswear or seaside use and were mostly worn by the middle to upper class. Modern straw hats and "Little House on the Prairie" bonnets are not acceptable for any impression.
| STEP 10 - EYEWEAR / GLASSES |
Eye wear can make or break an impression. You can have the most accurate and expensive reproduction clothing available, however, if your glasses are modern the impression is still going to look bad. Luckily there are several sources for period eye wear, and most can be taken to modern eye doctors to have lenses produced for them at a reasonable cost. As an example, the webmaster purchased a set of period frames from James Townsend for $25; taking them to the local Walmart Eye Clinic they were able to put in his prescription lenses for only $50.
Approved Vendors
James Townsend
Historic Eye Wear Company
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| Glasses of Rebecca Warren of White County, ARK(ACW Museum) |
Alice Jane Litton(Bancroft Library) |
Unknown(Pinterest) |
Unknown(Pinterest) |
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